It is just fitting that for having initiated the world’s first dive watch, Replica Watch Blancpain stays committed to maintaining the kingdom which its watches were initially purpose-built to explore: the seas. New for 2020, Blancpain is now taking a page from its customary Ocean Commitment playbook and turning the script using a new green-dialed dip watch benefitting a new conservation organization: a time-only 43mm ceramic Bathyscaphe, made to benefit from Mokarran Protection Society — a hammerhead shark defense nonprofit based in French Polynesia.
Model: Bathyscaphe Mokarran Limited Edition (ref. 5005-0153-NABA)
Water Resistance: 300 meters
Case Material: Satin-brushed black porcelain
Crystal/Lens: Domed sapphire
Movement: Blancpain Calibre 1318 (no-date version of cal. 1315)
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)
Power Reserve: 120 hours
Strap/Bracelet: Blancpain nylon NATO strap
Price & Availability: $15,500, 50 bits ($1,000 of every purchase donated to the Mokarran Protection Society
Contrary to BLANCPAIN JOUR NUIT REPLICA WATCH FOR LADIES three preceding Ocean Commitment watches that have been blue-dialed, or blue-cased affairs (or any combo of both ), this brand new Mokarran seizes upon the green-dialed fad in 2020, but does so with aplomb, leveraging Blancpain’s conventional stainless steel Bathyscaphe using its brushed’Meteor’ grey dial and punching into a glowing, tropical colour of green. Think palm fronds and hot sunshine filtering through dense mangroves, instead of this staid’Kermit’ or British Racing Green tones which we have seen dominating the media cycle this summer. The dial is complemented with a matte green porcelain bezel with mirrored Liquid Metal demarcations, and fitted using Blancpain’s black NATO strap which matches the situation’s black ceramic exterior.
If there’s 1 thing harder than creating a grand drawback, it’s seemingly, defining it. To break it down, a drawback is regarded as a horological quality that’s out the straightforward display of hours, minutes and seconds. A grand complication afterward — to put it — is if several complications watches have been fitted to the tiny confines of an average-sized timepiece.
Though experts tend to be divided on the”principles”, the expression’grand complication’ traditionally entails complications from three households: timing, chiming and calendars. These include attributes like the chronograph, endless calendar, moment repeater, moon stage , and expansive sonnerie. Obviously, more attributes involved means more odds of mistakes when creating them work together.
But one thing is for certain: successfully developing a grand disadvantage is really the pinnacle of a designer’s experience and watchmaker’s ability. There is a reason why they are so costly and infrequent . Aside from paying for the bad lad that is hunched around for weeks on end placing the bits together into a situation no larger than your wrist, then these watches are often also larger than normal, incurring extra expenses.
Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega 4 Replica Watches We have a look at five of those rare contemporary beauties, every a hallmark of haute horlogerie that’s as impressive as it’s complicated.
Pulverising the record amount of complications housed in one timepiece, the watch includes the standard stuff, and an equation of period which only changes by 6.8 minutes per lunar month — an equivalent of one day each thousand decades. Together with the Aeternitas motion as its foundation, and the 4 representing the constant pursuit of fine watchmaking with its grand and little Westminster chime striking-work, it is small wonder that the watch takes five years to gather.
This watch is a real modern classic, at the most conventional sense of the period. The watch emphasizes design elements made popular by”classic” watches from the 1950s and 1960s, brought to life beautifully in a contemporary timepiece. No doubt you’re able to realize that by simply looking at this watch, and for those reasons is precisely why I like it. Angular Momentum formula replica watches have no stop to the assortment of watches they will make, and this rare piece was completed as an homage to what advised the time on the wrists of so many gentleman. While the opinion is modest by today’s standards at 36mm wide, that’s really sized up from the 30-35mm cases which were popular”back in the afternoon.” But, go look for the real classics and you will just find a lot of really beat up watches in poor shape — that are not likely to look to nice in your wrist or that need a great deal of work. With a watch such as this Angular Momentum equation fake watch Tage Olsen Classic, you get that appearance, without having to put up with all the age and condition of the original classics.
7019 is likewise an ultra-thin watch employing a svelte manually wound mechanical movement inside the steel case. The actual allure of the design is that the interpretation of the classic components that the Tage Olsen Classic emulates. Look like at dial of this watch which plateaus, and then at the edges slopes down a little bit. The baton hour markers are put on the slopes, while the dauphine hands appears sensibly powerful. A subsidiary seconds dial helps round out the appearance, which may have appeared somewhat bare with no. Lugs are thin and long (typical of this timeless look), and are attached to a black leather strap. The entire design only fits together and advantages from Angular Momentum definition replica watches ‘ typical high quality fit and finish. On the dial of the watch is really a curved sapphire crystal, and the whole watch is water resistant to 50 meters.
Initially priced at about $2000, among this rare watches is available on eBay at about $1,600 new, which can be a fair price for a Swiss watch that this handsome, and arguably very unique — not to mention really difficult to come by. The watch was made with two dial colours, this virtually matte silver tone along with a darker black tone. This silver toned variant is the most classic looking and can be my pick of the sequence.
Black PVD stainless steel case with a black rubber strap with white stripe Fixed ceramic bezel with 24 hour markings. White dial with silvertone with black fill hands and Arabic numeral hour markers. Minute markers. Tachymeter around the outer rim. Dial Type: Analog. Luminescent hands and markers. Date display at the 6 o’clock position. Chronograph – two sub-dials displaying: 60 second and 30 minute. Automatic movement. Scratch resistant sapphire crystal. Screw down crown. Skeleton case back. Case diameter: 48 mm. Case thickness: 17.5 mm. Round case shape. Band width: 21 mm. Band length: 8 inches. Tang clasp. Water resistant at 100 meters / 330 feet. Functions: chronograph, tachymeter, GMT, date, hour, minute, second. Luxury watch style. Graham watches zurich Replica Silverstone Chronograph White Dial Black Rubber Strap Men’s Watch 2BLCDW04A.
Black PVD Stainless Steel
Scratch Resistant Sapphire
Silvertone with Black Fill
Minute Markers. Tachymeter around the outer rim
Two – 60 Second and 30 Minute
Hands and Markers
Fixed Ceramic with 24 Hour Markings
Black Rubber with White Stripe
100 meters / 330 feet
Date display at the 6 o’clock position
Chronograph, Tachymeter, GMT, Date, Hour, Minute, Second
Increasingly, watchmakers are trying to reach that important female demographic. Advertising campaigns for much of 2014 from major watch brands will heavily appeal to women, and more and more brands are looking to reach women watch lovers online. I suppose they feel that us men are already well served? While it is true that men and women tend to differ in what appeals to them about watches, each is an important market. What many people don’t know is that some of your favorite men’s watchmakers make most of their money by selling ladies watches. The best selling watch at Rolex? A two-tone ladies’ Datejust. Patek Philippe makes pretty amazing and complicated timepieces for men but their most important sales segment is diamond-decorated quartz watches for women. In a sense, many of the most interesting men’s watches are funded by timepieces for women.
What defines a “dive watch?” If you look for the most literal interpretation, you’re very likely to find ISO 6425, which outlines a strict set of globally defined guidelines for durability, functionality, and legibility, finally regulating what can and cannot be formally known as a real “dive watch.” Along the same lines but for aviator watches, Sinn has just announced the debut of DIN 8330 — a new German industry standard spearheaded by the watchmaker, and anchored by a trio of new pilot sequences, purpose-built and officially certified to be functionally safe and dependable from the cockpit. Here, we’ve got a formal aviator’s equal to the DIN and ISO standards which have long dominated other tropical realms of purpose-built watchmaking. At the risk of oversimplifying things, consider it as the ISO 6425 of bunny watches, open to any German watchmaker for consideration.The ink was barely dry on TESTAF’s introduction in 2012 when Sinn started campaigning for a stronger industry-wide DIN benchmark for all pilot watches. However, executing this required widespread alliance from German governing bodies and the industry as a whole — especially, consultation by Lufthansa Cargo, Airbus Helicopters, and other German watchmakers such as Stowa, Hanhart, and Glashütte Original; afterward help from risk management company DNV GL who informed the certification criteria and process; and ultimately, the University of Applied Sciences FH Aachen who functioned as the testing institute. The final result is a truly collaborative set of criteria that ultimately governs all German aviator watches deployed in professional and civilian air traffic equally.
So we try to cover interesting women’s watches from time to time. The types of pieces that we might like to wear if we happened to wake up one morning and find that we suddenly represented the fairer sex. This is the 2013 Lady 8 watch by Jaquet Droz. I know what you are thinking… yes, another timepieces that revolves around the “lucky number 8” which seems to do so well in Chinese cultures. Yes, it is true that “8 themed” watches do well in China, but you don’t need to care much at all about the number (or what word it may sounds like) to appreciate this collection.
If you don’t know why the watch is called the Lady 8 then perhaps you haven’t given it a close enough look. The entire case is shaped in a figure eight style design, which also happens to be the overall look of the dial on Jaquet Droz Loving Butterfly Automaton Replica Grande Seconde collection timepieces. Here rather than the dial, the entire case shape features the design. The case is also slightly curved to fit over one’s wrist easily, which is a nice touch.
Available in steel, 18k white gold, or 18k red gold, the case is 35mm wide at its widest point. Depending on the version, the case is decorated with various amounts of diamonds or brown garnet stones (for the red gold version), and a unique material is used for the smaller part of the “8.” This is actually one of the most interesting and tactile elements of the design.
That stated, the Sinn EZM 12 Air Rescue is probably one of Sinn’s most esoteric tool watches yet, made through direct input in the elite German Air Rescue group, who required three timekeeping elements unique to EMS. Every one of these elements represent a different interval as it regards triage and prey care: an internal rotating count-up bezel for measuring the first ten minutes after birth (the above “platinum ten”), an outside rotating countdown bezel for measuring the “golden hour,” or the span of time by which arrival at a hospital or stopping blood loss offers the best chance of success, and a pulsometer integrated in the seconds hand with a corresponding graduated scale.It’s an awful lot to take in, and it ultimately yields a pretty busy dialup, but if you look carefully, you can view all the various scales and their various reference points, cleanly laid out to remind the wearer that critical patients want treatment and transportation in the first ten minutes, along with any patient should arrive in a hospital within an hour of the crash. Simple, right?Now, how closely a flight medic will be able to track all this while at the chaos of a injury incident is probably a legitimate question, but it does little to change the fact that this is still an exceptionally cool, perfectly legible view — at least under the bright lights of the conference hall. That said, the PulsRotor seconds hand is likely to be the watch’s most underrated feature. In static images, the seconds hand looks cool, but with all four points rotating at once, it may take a little getting used to. To be honest, putting a pulsometer whose scale only utilizes half of the dial on a three-handed watch is pretty smart, but to pull it off, you do need a running moments hand that has repeating indexes on the standard 15-second basis of dimension — that, in this case, happens to conveniently look a good deal like a helicopter rotor.
One of the newest Jaquet Droz Legend Geneva Replica Grande Seconde Tourbillon watches from the boutique Swiss watch maker (that is probably the smallest and most unique high-end brand under the Swatch Group umbrella) is this eight-piece limited edition reference J013033242 Grande Seconde Tourbillon Paillonnée you see here. I last covered another version of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon watch here in 2015. I get more into a technical discussion of the base watch in that article, but I’ll touch on the major points again here and focus on the paillonnée enamel technique used to decorate the dial.
What is important to mention is that over the last several years Jaquet Droz Watch Wiki Replica has invested rather heavily in not only bringing many of these artistic decorative techniques in-house (as opposed to using outside artists and craftspeople), but also in rediscovering lost techniques which were used in the past to create much of the beautiful enamel work on pocket watches and other items from a few hundred years ago.
It isn’t the case that someone can simply look at an antique pocket watch and immediately know how it was made. So much technique has been lost over the ages – even in those instances when the tools and even technical drawings are available. It might be the epitome of a first-world problem (or “Swiss dilemma,” as I call it), but there are people in the watch and luxury industry in general who dedicate much of their time and careers to learning how people made things in the past.
This search for lost techniques and processes to create art really began in the world of restoration. People needed to restore old art to look newer again, and in many instances there simply aren’t a lot of clues to go by. Autodidacts of the most brilliant caliber have been able to reinvent some amazing things. In the watch industry, where “old” is often the new “new,” the spirit of rediscovering the past is a deep part of the culture of many brands. Perhaps especially at companies like Jaquet Droz whose namesake died a few hundred years ago.
Going back to the watch, the face that frames the figure eight-style dials is decorated with what they call a paillonnée enameling technique. Here we have a surface that is textured, painted, and then set with a series of solid gold “paillons” that together create an attractive geometric pattern. These small gold appliques are currently produced in-house by Jaquet Droz, as no one else apparently has the skills to make them any more. In all likelihood, traditional ones from the past were produced using a casting technique. Jaquet Droz even admits that some of their first modern paillonnée enameling watches use original paillons from the past which they were able to recover in various ways. Eventually, they needed to produce new ones and currently do so in-house in small batches.
I’ve personally visited Jaquet Droz’s small, albeit impressive “artistic technique” studio which looks like a combination between a research and development lab and an art restoration studio. Techniques and styles are tested to see about the best way of recreating this and other lost art which we can enjoy in new watches. It’s a lot of little details, but something worth knowing about when considering a watch priced at over $100,000. That is a lot of money, but there are certainly worse ways to spend it on a luxury timepiece.
The paillonnée enamel technique with is gold paillons set against blue enamel frames the figure eight display for the time which marks the Jaquet Droz 1000m Replica Grande Seconde collection. It’s proven to be quite attractive and is a hallmark of the modern Jaquet Droz brand since its reintroduction in the year 2000. Of course, the irony here (as I’ve mention in the past) is that the seconds indicator (which is also the tourbillon display) is smaller than the hour and minute dial so it is not technically a “grand seconds.” That name applies more accurately to the non-tourbillon versions of this design where the seconds indicator is below (and larger), and the top of the figure eight is the dial for the hour and minutes (which is smaller).
The dials are framed by an 18k red gold figure eight, which matches the 18k red gold case. The watch is intentionally bold, even though it is more dressy in its style at 43mm wide (13.1mm thick) – which, for me, is an ideal size since what you are really showing off here is the art of the dial. One of Jaquet Droz’s wonderful rolled-side alligator straps (in blue) perfectly compliments the dial color. The composition of the watch is truly top-notch (assuming the overall style appeals to you, as it does myself).
I like how Jaquet Droz The Writer Replica chose to go for a semi-transparent window to the tourbillon. You can see it through the dial, but it isn’t brazenly exposed. It is a more subtle way of showing off a tourbillon, and I think it is a style many people will appreciate (again, despite the high cost of this status timepiece). Inside the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Paillonnée is the caliber 25JD automatic tourbillon movement, exclusive to Jaquet Droz. It has a full seven days of power reserve operating at 3Hz (21,600bph). You can see the movement through the sapphire crystal caseback window, and there you’ll also see the attractive blue lapis lazuli applique set into the otherwise 18k red gold automatic rotor.
Clearly, I have a soft spot for modern watches that attempt to recreate the majestic artistic density of antique timepiece creations that I fawn over in museum settings. Brands like Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Cuprite Replica have a rich history to pull from, but in reality, the entire watch industry has literally several hundred years of incredible designs and artistic techniques to inspire them. Modern tastes and industrial practices prevent most of the historic hand-done art to be used on today’s watches, but it is nice to know that at least some watches like the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Paillonnée attempt to combine modern aesthetic considerations with artistic techniques that many people can continue to appreciate. I think Jaquet Droz blends the old and the new together quite well in watches like this, but they are quite limited in their production by nature. This reference J013033242 watch is produced as a limited edition of just 8 watches with a price of $119,200. jaquetdroz.com
The hour and minute hands of the Sinn 6200 WG Meisterbund I are slim, might be described as leaf-shaped, and contrast well against the anthracite dial without obscuring the view. The small seconds counter at 6 o’clock uses a matte disc to differentiate itself from the rest of the dial, also includes its own railroad track with Arabic numerals marking every 10th second. “Made in Germany” is displayed along the bottom of the dial to both sides of their small seconds counter, along with the Sinn branding and “Frankfurt Am Main” taking pride of place near 12 o’clock. Even at a glance, there can be no doubt that this is not a Swiss timepiece — a fact that’s being celebrated here instead of concealed.Through the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, the hand-wound grade UWD 33.1 is shown. This is the identical caliber that is featured in the previous rose gold 6200 Meisterbund Ipersonally, and it is at least as lovely here. Marco Lang of Lang & Heyne watches is the guy behind UWD — that also creates very finely finished watches in traditional German style — and his experience shows here. The movement is made from nickel silver (also called German Silver or Maillechort), which has a silver-like look when fresh but will tarnish a creamy yellowish with age. The caliber UWD 33.1 also comes equipped with a hacking seconds mechanism for exact time-setting, and can be anti-magnetic in accordance with DIN 8309 (roughly 4 800 A/M, or amperes per meter). The crown wheel and ratchet are additional sunburst-decorated by hand.
Welcome back to an original aBlogtoWatch feature, “My First Grail Watch.” In this series, we ask prominent people in the watch industry about the first timepiece that they lusted after. Today, we’re speaking with Manuel Emch, who, along with being a watch designer, was at the helm of Jaquet Droz, and is currently the CEO of Romain Jerome. He also has a relatively rare distinction as having designed what he identifies as being one of his grail watches.
aBlogtoWatch (ABTW): Who are you, and what is your relationship to the watch industry?
Manuel Emch (ME): My name is Manuel Emch and I was born and raised surrounded by watches. I come from a family of watchmakers and grew up in Grenchen, home of ETA headquarters. Needless to say, that the watch industry was imprinted in me from a very young age.
ABTW: When did your fascination with watches start?
ME: At the end of the 1970’s we went through a big crisis in the watchmaking industry. Most of my friend’s parents lost their jobs and it really put a toll on the area where I lived. The topic was permanently in everybody’s minds and it was difficult to ignore what was going on.
Therefore, I grew up with an ambivalent idea about watches and the business as it had put many people I knew in difficulty. To be quite frank, I really started to interest myself in watches when, as a teenager, my friends and I started to first trade and then collect Swatch watches. I was at the time mainly attracted by the artistic collection as I’ve always had a great passion for Contemporary Art.
From then, I continued to interest myself into more brands and designs. My first real foot in the industry was during an internship at Swatch in the design department in Milan during my design studies at Art Center, a design university.
ABTW: What was your first grail watch?
ME: To be honest, I always had my eye on the limited edition Swatch designed by Keith Haring. I have always loved Keith Haring’s work and therefore would have loved to have this particular watch in my collection.
ABTW: What drew you to this particular watch?
ME: I guess it was a mixture of things, the design of course, the artist himself and the exclusivity (only 1000 pieces made) of the timepiece as it was impossible for me to get this watch at that time.
ABTW: Was there ever a time in your life when you could afford it – and if so, did you get it?
ME: Affording the watch wasn’t the problem; it was being able to get my hands on it! It was a rare piece and only avid collectors were able to get this watch. In short, I have never gotten my first grail watch.
ABTW: Since your first grail is so rare, have you moved on to something else?
ME: I did get my second grail watch; which I had the chance to design, the “Grande Seconde” from Jaquet Droz, as well as some watch icons such as the Speedmaster from Omega or a Daytona from Rolex.
I think that very few people can say that they were able to design and buy their own creation. So I can definitely say that I got my Grail and hope to get many more.
What I like about the Jaquet Droz Grande Heure GMT watch is that it has a rather self-explanatory appeal. I don’t need to discuss at length its technical merits or history to get you excited. What you have is a clever adaptation of the one-hand watch design mixed with the elegant simplicity of Jaquet Droz’s design ethos. Released as part of Jaquet Droz’s 2013 watch collection, the Grande Heure GMT offers a simple and practical approach to the two time zone dress watch.
Single hand watches aren’t too common, but they are more popular now than ever due to brands such as Meistersinger who produce them. The idea is that you have a watch with only an hour hand, and no minute hand. These can be in the form of traditional 12 hour dials, or in this case, a 24 hour dial. That means the single hour hand makes one full rotation each day. Time is read with the single hand as it travels between the hours as per normal. The approach is elegant and unique, but there is a clear trade off in precision. This means that you can’t really have to-the-minute precision. That is further diluted on a 24 hour dial such as this. You can see that there are five indicators between each hour. The one in the middle is clearly the half hour mark, and the two small dots don’t really refer to a specific moment in the hour that is easy to read (such as “1:45”). So basically, you have a dial that is precise to within about 10 minutes. If you need the exact minute, check your phone. If you are like me, then being on time within 10 minutes is something to be personally proud of.
This is a finely finished dress piece in precious metal — a cooperation between three German firms who each bring specialist skills to the table. The Sinn 6200 WG Meisterbund I will be cased by the same manufacturer that provides A. Lange & Söhne, offers an architecturally intriguing movement produced by UWD, also displays a well-decorated yet legible dial feature of Sinn Spezialuhren. While it is up against some strong competition from fellow German (and of course Swiss) watchmakers at the price, I can envision 55 people enjoying the workmanship and watchmaking which goes into a piece like this.You do not need to reside in a family where the very first week of November is an observed holiday to appreciate the coming of Sinn’s annual “Jagduhr” (hunting watch) collection — this year taking the form of this Sinn Hunting Watch 3006. Hell, even if your “holy trinity” doesn’t occur to comprise Smith & Wesson or Cabela’s — you still may want to keep reading.Now in the fourth iteration of the yearly series, the recently announced Jagduhr 3006 Hunting Chronograph (or however you may decide to refer to it) brings a neat new complication to the mix: some luminescent, day/night moonphase as well as some 24-hour indicator, pointer date, along with also a full calendar — all of which should prove useful for anyone who might lose track of time whilst strapped to a tree, waiting for sport to wander in their scope.The Jagduhr series got its start on this fairly basic “Paul Parey” special edition 756, then continued with more rocky offerings, like last year’s entrance based on the U1000, or the previous season’s predicated on the 757 UTC pilot’s view — both of which, were basically re-skinned in green, and didn’t bring anything fresh complication-wise to the table.
The trick here of course is that the Grande Heure GMT watch has two hands. Each is an hour hand, and that is probably worth knowing in advance to save you from being utterly confused as to what time it is when trying to use this fine looking timepiece. GMT watches offer two time zones, often with one hand showing time in a 24 hour format so that it can be readily determined whether it is AM or PM in the other time zone. Here you simple have two 24 hour hands… and no minutes.
Each of the hands is distinct in color. The main hand matches the 18k rose gold of the case, while the other hand is in blued steel. The large open dial serves as a gorgeous minimalist palette for showing off the long, properly sized hands. I am a sucker for long, thin hands and this design easily speaks to me due to its elegant, sophisticated look. It helps that the off-white ivory dial isn’t lacquered, but in true Jaquet Droz fashion, painted via a grand feu enamel technique.
A neat little trick that adds to the appeal is that if you want a truly one-handed watch you can have one with this watch. By simply aligning the two timezones to display the exact same time, you can hide the blue hands under the gold hand. They connect in a way that makes them appear as a single hand, which gives the Grande Heure GMT watch two different personalities.
The watch case itself is thankfully on the larger side being 43mm wide, again in 18k rose gold. That is the only material offered for now, but I suspect additional metals will be available in the future. The case is also rather thin, so it looks great on the wrist and sits comfortably. The thin bezel helps the watch look even larger, which helps show off the simple and attractive dial.
Inside the watch is the Jaquet Droz caliber 5N50.4 automatic movement with a power reserve of 68 hours. The automatic rotor is 22k gold as well, and the entire movement is visible through the case back window on the rear of the watch. Attached to the watch is a typically nice black alligator strap with those nice rolled edges that offer no visible stitching. I really love those types of straps.
While the Jaquet Droz Watches Wikipedia Replica Grande Heure GMT isn’t a complicated watch, it is surprisingly satisfying and stylistically very sharp. Priced “within the brand,” for those who like to bolster their collection with unique, yet very wearable pieces, this is an attractive offering. Price is $26,400. jaquet-droz.com
While we may all feel like we know Sinn and have a handle on their overall taste, Baselworld 2016 revealed that Sinn remains capable of surprising and that their game isn’t exclusively tool sailors and hardcore pilot watches. In the elaborate 6200 Meisterbund to the somewhat rakishly handsome 910 Anniversary chronograph, Sinn’s 2016 Baselworld lineup has been an impressive pivot from their more common watch stylings.We’ll depart the 6200 for another post and focus on the sporty and stylish Sinn 910 Anniversary. Thickness is 15.5mm, using anti-reflective sapphire crystals front and back protecting a nicely finished movement and a beautiful warm tan dial with black employed markers and reddish accents.With no date and two sub dials, dial symmetry is strong and the Sinn 910 Anniversary provides dual central seconds hands (for split second timing) and a 30-minute totalizator in the three. Using a highly altered ETA 7750 using a dual column wheel rattrapante module from La Joux-Perret, the Sinn 910 Anniversary functions like a traditional chronograph, however you may stop and reset the divide step via the pusher at 8 o’clock. This double chronograph performance is excellent for timing the results of two simultaneous events, such as the 1st and 2nd outcomes of a sprint, or just for playing with since you pass the time. Furthermore, given their comparative rarity and specialized engineering, a split second chrono is a cool way to pay tribute to Sinn’s anniversary.Despite its somewhat more classic form, the Sinn 910 Anniversary is spared bit of Sinn’s focus to robust engineering and technical specifics. Water resistant to the DIN 8310 criteria and 100M, the Sinn 910 Anniversary can be shock resistant and anti-magnetic into the guidelines created by DIN 8308 and 8309, respectively. The Sinn 910 Salon can also be low pressure immunity and its own crown and pushers utilize Sinn’s D3-System for a more integrated design that offers enhanced protection against knocks and the ingress of moisture and dust. As per usual with Sinn, there’s no half-assery available in the design and construct of the Sinn 910 Anniversary.
It is funny how trends develop in the watch world, especially for relatively high-end, obscure complications. Once strange and relatively unique, the dead beat seconds complication is having a veritable renaissance perpetuated first by the more hip independent watch makers and now entering the mainstream of high luxury timepiece creations. For 2015, Jaquet Droz gets on the dead beat seconds hand wagon with a new version of the Grande Seconde called the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat.
What is a deadbeat seconds complication? For those who don’t already know, it is simply explained by saying that it is a ticking seconds hand in a mechanical watch. Ticking seconds hands are normally reserved for quartz watches – at least that is how they are known in more modern watches. Historically, however, ticking seconds hands existed on certain high precision clocks sometimes known as regulator clocks. These clocks were used in scientific labs or to help regulate the time of other clocks. Ticking seconds hands make it much easier to count the seconds when that is important. Recently, thanks to brands like Arnold & Son, the dead seconds hand (which has other names as well) has been popping up more frequently, and watching them in action is far more elegant than seeing ticking seconds hands on quartz watches.
The 2015 Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat takes the familiar look of the Grande Seconde watch collection and adds a ticking central seconds hand. This is actually an evolution on the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme (hands-on here), because it also includes an indicator dial for the date. I have to admit that the balance of the dial, well at least the elegance, is thrown off a bit, given the inclusion of a central seconds hand. The grace of the core Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde watch dial look is the figure eight layout with the hours and minutes on top and the seconds below. While this execution is fine, it would seem to have been a more “pure” Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde with the removal of the date dial and the larger subdial for the seconds being the deadbeat seconds indicator.
Nevertheless, that suggestion may have not resulted in the optimal visual experience to fully appreciate the dead beat seconds hand – which is best experienced when it takes up an entire dial. Inside the watch is the exclusive for Jaquet Droz caliber 2695SMR automatic movement that contains a silicon hairspring and power reserve of 40 hours, operating at 3Hz. The lower-than-anticipated power reserve is likely due to the extra power necessary for the “jumping seconds hand.” The movement further features the newer automatic rotor design and movement decoration we are seeing in more and more Jaquet Droz watches.
For its debut model, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat will come as the reference J008033200 in 18k red gold, with a grand feu enamel dial. The case is 43mm wide and 13.79mm thick. We continue to love the rolled alligator straps that Jaquet Droz pairs with many of their timepieces. For 2015, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat watch will be limited to 88 pieces (surprise, surprise on the number) and will be priced between about $30,000 – $35,000. jaquet-droz.com
I can’t really think of another time when I found a 3:40 am wake-up feel any easier than it did just a couple of days ago. On this cold Budapest morning I got up as fresh as scarcely ever before, checked all my gear one last time – laptop, camera, chargers, lenses, flash, memory cards, batteries – and finally set off to have what I would call “my first watch exhibition experience.” My destination was the 2013 SalonQP fine watch exhibition, held between the 7th and 9th of November, in the Saatchi Gallery in the fabulous city of London. Saying that I was excited would be a massive understatement. Although I was familiar with this annual event – we at aBlogtoWatch have covered it several times – the thought of seeing so many special watches “in the metal,” at the same place, at the same time had me counting down the days and weeks before the event started.
Part of the list of exhibitors placed just by the elevators; The Fine Watch Room with its main exhibition piece in the centre and another gallery still in construction. Exterior image of the gallery from Saatchi Gallery.
Before we begin to discuss the highlights of the show, allow me to briefly describe SalonQP for those who have not had the pleasure of attending before. It is an exhibition dedicated to fine watches and is hosted by the Saatchi Gallery in downtown London. This beautiful gallery was entirely reserved for all three days of the show and this meant that one could visit exhibitors on all three floors with booths set up in more than a dozen smaller and larger halls. The first of the three days was dedicated to an invitation-only VIP reception, held from 6pm until 10pm. Nonetheless, both following days were open to the public between noon and 6pm with tickets going for around £20 ($30) per day.
I will admit that just a few hours before the official opening I was still wondering how successful the following days were going to be, how many people would attend and how the exhibition will perform as an important forum that strives to bring watch making closer to its audience. Having said that, I never imagined anything quite like what it turned out to be. The interest for the opening night was beyond my boldest expectations! All three levels were packed with true watch aficionados and the occasional watch lovers, all of them tirelessly visiting exhibitors in every hall. Large crowds gathered around every booth as brands repeatedly presented their latest and greatest timepieces. Some brands tried to further enhance the night’s buzzing atmosphere. My absolute favorite of these efforts had to be the 1940’s band playing by the Bremont stand. Their lovely style lent a unique flair to the gallery while perfectly matching the British company and its showcased timepieces.
From a watch enthusiast’s perspective it was fantastic to see so many people attend and show such incredible interest for the event, for the brands and – most importantly – for watch making itself. For the longer term we have to find that the chance to see, study and experience watch making in much greater detail must be granted to an ever-growing audience. And this is where this show truly excelled. It provided visitors – of the public and journalists alike – equally easy access to all participating brands. What I mean by easy access is that throughout the event there was a chance of personally meeting several of one’s favorite brands and getting a more practical understanding of their background and their products as well. Thanks to the layout of the booths people could go up to meet the representatives of every exhibiting company and often personally meet the CEOs and/or founders of their favorite brands.
But the show offered even more than just that. A handful of minor and major companies chose to highlight one of the crafts that they practice in-house, hence providing visitors the special opportunity to experience some of the most amazing professions in high-end watch making. There were watch makers taking apart and assembling trademark movements of their manufactures, engravers creating special components as well as enamel dial painters and strap-makers. So let’s begin by discussing this blend of fine watch exhibitions and a few of watch making’s most challenging crafts.
To top it all off, The Sinn 103 St Sa E is fabricated in a limited run of 300 bits, a number that I think really is exclusive unlike some of the 4-figure production runs we have seen this season. The Sinn 103 St Sa E ships on leather for $2,250 and on the H-link bracelet for $2,560. If you would prefer one of the Sinn 103s with no artificial classic lume, the non-limited models start from $1,880 — a good value proposition for a German tool watch that’s built like a tank. To top it all off, The Sinn 103 St Sa E is fabricated in a limited run of 300 pieces, a number that I think really is exclusive unlike any of the 4-figure manufacturing runs we have seen this season. If you’d prefer one of the Sinn 103s with no faux classic lume, the non-limited versions start from $1,880 — a good value proposition for a German tool watch that’s built like a tank. For those seeking to brush up on their German, EZM is brief for Einsatzzeitmesser, or “assignment timer.” The EZM series has now been a mainstay in Sinn’s lineup for 20 decades, where it routinely showcases the newest technologies and design inventions. Therefore it goes without saying that the EZM 12 has big boots to fill, since it combines a tradition of interesting and exceptionally rugged mission timers, all of which are purpose-built for some of the toughest professions in the world.These include the colorful EZM 7 using its air source timer designed for firemen, or the oil-filled EZM 2b that was assembled for GSG 9 (the equivalent of the elite SWAT unit together with the German police), and is presently standard-issue for the German Navy’s elite combat divers. Granted, the ultra-specific feature collections of these watches could be limiting their individual audiences in some ways, but it’s probably safe to assume that there are still enough watch lovers around who still enjoy this unique approach to design, even if they’re not first responders or elite special forces operators.
A master watchmaker from Piaget is working on the 1270P ultra-thin automatic tourbillon movement for the Emperador Coussin watch
We will start with the watchmakers, the men who were working with unbelievable discipline and diligence in this noisy and tumbling environment. I am certain that every watch enthusiast will be familiar with that particular mixture of fascination, curiosity and amazement generated by the sight of a fine movement seen through a sapphire case back. At SalonQP some highly acknowledged movement manufacturing brands allowed visitors to get a much better view than any transparent case back would allow as they presented uncased examples of some of their most remarkable calibers. Piaget, Chopard and Zenith had set up benches with one of their master watchmakers working on one or more trademark movements of the manufactures, while Jaeger-LeCoultre hosted a public workshop with participation fees going to a charity organization.