While we may all feel as we understand Sinn and have a grip in their general taste, Baselworld 2016 revealed that Sinn is still capable of surprising and that their match is not exclusively tool sailors and hardcore pilot watches. From the elaborate 6200 Meisterbund into the rather rakishly handsome 910 Anniversary chronograph, Sinn’s 2016 Baselworld lineup was an impressive pivot in their more common watch stylings.We’ll depart the 6200 for the following post and center on the sporty and versatile Sinn 910 Anniversary. Thickness is 15.5mm, with anti-reflective sapphire crystals front and back protecting a well finished movement and a beautiful hot tan dial with black applied markers and red accents.With no date along with two sub dials, dial symmetry is strong and the Sinn 910 Anniversary provides dual central seconds palms (for split second timing) and a 30-minute totalizator at three. Employing a highly modified ETA 7750 with a double column wheel rattrapante module out of La Joux-Perret, the Sinn 910 Anniversary operates like a conventional chronograph, however you may stop and reset the divide measure via the pusher at 8 o’clock. This dual chronograph functionality is excellent for timing that the outcomes of two simultaneous events, like the 1st and 2nd results of a sprint, or just for playing with as you pass the time. Additionally, given their comparative rarity and specialized technology, a split second chrono is a cool way to pay tribute to Sinn’s anniversary.Despite its somewhat more classic type, the Sinn 910 Anniversary is spared bit of Sinn’s attention to robust engineering and technical details. Water resistant to the DIN 8310 standards and 100M, the Sinn 910 Anniversary is also shock resistant and anti-magnetic to the guidelines established by DIN 8308 and 8309, respectively. The Sinn 910 Anniversary is also low pressure immunity and its own crown and pushers use Sinn’s D3-System for a more integrated design that offers enhanced protection against knocks and the ingress of moisture and dust. As per normal with Sinn, there’s no half-assery available in the plan and construct of this Sinn 910 Anniversary.
As November comes to an end, we check out Omega’s new and very unique-looking Seamaster Bullhead Chronograph and Jaquet Droz’s very blingy ‘Ultra Lux’ Bird Repeater watch. Speaking of Jaquet Droz, we also spent an evening with one of their enamelist to see how their dials are painted. With bronze watches all the rage, we also find out how you can quicken the patina process. Finally, we find out how custom watch straps are made.
1. Experience With Jaquet Droz Enamel Dial Painting: Tough
Enamel dials are experiencing a resurgence of late and Jaquet Droz is one of the high-end watch brands to feature watches with enamel dials. We recently had the chance to join Jaquet Droz and one of their enamelist, Heidi, to see how their dials are created, and also had the chance to try painting the dials ourselves.
The Omega Seamaster Bullhead chronograph was one of the new watches unveiled by Omega earlier this year at Baselworld. I was intrigued by its unique case design and thought the white dial variant looked absolutely captivating. It helps too that it features a chronograph complication and can be used to tell time in another time zone by way of its rotating inner 24-hour bezel.
How do you make an already expensive watch even more expensive? If this watch is anything to by, simply add diamonds. Jaquet Droz’s Bird Repeater watch is amazing, but at close to half a million dollars, nowhere near affordable. This piece takes that watch, removes the exquisitely painted enamel dial and adds loads of diamonds in its place. I dare not guess how much this costs.
4. The First Rolex Oyster Watch From 1926
For good or bad, Rolex is today synonymous with luxury watches. It is one of the world’s largest high-end watchmakers and also one of the most powerful brands in the world. However, it was not always this way. Rolex had very humble beginnings and made its name after a series of technical breakthroughs, one of which was the first Oyster watch. The iconic Submariner followed in 1953. Find out more about these two historically important watches here.
5. What You Should Know About Apple, iWatches, And Sapphire Crystal
It has long been rumored that Apple is working on a watch. Heck, the company even registered the iWatch name in a couple of countries. But with the iWatch still nowhere to be seen, here are some thoughts from us with regards to its design and the use of sapphire crystal.
If you look for the most literal interpretation, then you’re very likely to find ISO 6425, that outlines a strict set of internationally defined guidelines for durability, functionality, and legibility, finally regulating what can and cannot be officially referred to as a true “dip watch.” Along the very same lines but for aviator watches, Sinn has just announced the debut of DIN 8330 — a new German business standard spearheaded by the watchmaker, and anchored by a trio of new pilot sequences, purpose-built and officially certified to be functionally secure and dependable from the cockpit. Here, we’ve got an official aviator’s equivalent to the DIN and ISO standards which have long governed other watery realms of purpose-built watchmaking. At the risk of oversimplifying things, consider it as the ISO 6425 of bunny sequences, open to any German watchmaker for consideration.The ink was hardly dry on TESTAF’s debut in 2012 when Sinn started campaigning for a more robust industry-wide DIN standard for all pilot watches. But, executing this required widespread alliance from German regulating bodies and the sector as a whole — especially, consultation by Lufthansa Cargo, Airbus Helicopters, and other German watchmakers like Stowa, Hanhart, and Glashütte Original; afterward assistance from risk management company DNV GL who informed the certification criteria and procedure; and ultimately, the University of Applied Sciences FH Aachen who functioned as the testing institute. The final result is really a collaborative set of criteria that simplifies all of German aviator watches set up in civilian and professional air traffic alike.
My love of aventurine inspired me to write about this particular limited edition version of the Jaquet Droz Watches For Sale Replica Grande Seconde Tourbillon – which unsurprisingly is known as the Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine ref. J013014270 (as you’ll see in a moment, a name that is a bit ironic). Limited to just 28 pieces, this is an interestingly decorative version of one of the most simple and elegant tourbillon watches available.
aBlogtoWatch first covered the Jaquet Droz Grande Second Tourbillon here, back in 2012. Rather than a 43mm wide case, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine is smaller, at 39mm wide. That makes it sort of “uni-sex,” although this style and size is popular in Asia, a region where Jaquet Droz is rather successful. So while the diamonds and mother-of-pearl are a bit feminine for some Western male tastes, I wouldn’t go ahead and assume that this is a woman’s watch. It is in fact marketed as a men’s model, I believe.
So let’s get the name part out of the way, since I tend to harp on nomenclature (as you probably already know). While this watch is clearly part of the Jaquet Droz Writer Replica Grande Seconde collection, it is mislabeled, as it does not have a “grand second” hand typical of the rest of the collection, but rather a juxtaposed dial, where the hour and minute hands are where the seconds hand would be. Where the hour and minute hands normally are on Grande Seconde models, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine has an exposed tourbillon – which doubles as a second indicator. I feel like I am repeating myself, since I essentially made the same remarks two years ago.
I’ve always liked the simplicity of the Grande Seconde Tourbillon, but the story is different here. What you get is a 39mm wide 18k white gold case decorated with diamonds on the bezel and lugs, along with more diamonds outlining the figure eight shape on the dial. The outer part of the face is aventurine, while the inner part is mother-of-pearl. While I am not typically a diamond watch sort of guy, I do think the overall composition of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine is rather beautiful.
Aventurine is a beautiful semi-precious stone that is actually a form of quartz. It comes in a range of colors with most aventurine rocks being green. Having said that, in watches, I’ve only ever seen the deep blue form of the mineral. What makes aventurine special for me is that the deep blue forms of the mineral, when used as a background, offer the look of space. Space, as in the night sky. There are small shiny mineral inclusions in aventurine that sparkle like stars against the deep sky blue. When watches wish to have a background that looks like space, aventurine is often used.
Other examples of aventurine stone used in men’s watches are rare, but notable. We first covered Blu watches back in 2009 which made rich use of blue aventurine. More recently, the hit Midnight Planetarium watch by Van Cleef & Arpels also used aventurine as a starry watch face. As you can see, the quartz mineral works really well for that, and while it isn’t meant to look like space on the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine, it does make for an excellent frame for the time and tourbillon. More so, there is a piece of aventurine placed on the rotor, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback of the watch over the automatic movement.
It was back in 2013 that aBlogtoWatch debuted the very interesting Jaquet Droz The Charming Bird watch here. Even though it took several years of development to get to that point, it was not until earlier in 2015 that Swiss watch maker Jaquet Droz professed to us that, “Ariel, The Charming Bird is now ready.” So, what is the Jaquet Droz Charming Bird, exactly? Well, it is a modern, miniaturized version of a fun, and impressively antique technology that was used to create small singing birds. Since Jaquet Droz’s brand “rebirth” in around 2000, I felt that this was exactly what the brand needed to establish itself, given the legacy of the man who was Mr. Jaquet Droz. During his time, in addition to pocket watches and incredible automatons, Jaquet Droz also made a number of mechanical singing birds.
The hour and minute hands of the Sinn 6200 WG Meisterbund I’m slim, might be described as leaf-shaped, and contrast well from the anthracite dial without obscuring the view. The tiny seconds counter at 6 o’clock utilizes a matte disc to differentiate itself from the rest of the dial, also features its own railroad trail with Arabic numerals indicating every 10th second. At a glance, there can be no doubt that this is not a Swiss timepiece — true that’s being celebrated here instead of concealed.Through the sapphire crystal display caseback, the hand-wound caliber UWD 33.1 is shown. This is precisely the identical caliber that’s featured in the past rose gold 6200 Meisterbund I, and it’s just as beautiful here. Marco Lang of Lang & Heyne watches would be the man behind UWD — that also creates very finely finished watches in traditional German style — and his experience shows here. The movement is made from nickel silver (also known as German Silver or Maillechort), which has a silver-like appearance when fresh but will tarnish a creamy yellowish with age. The caliber UWD 33.1 also comes equipped with a hacking seconds mechanism for precise time-setting, and can be anti-magnetic according to DIN 8309 (roughly 4 800 A/M, or amperes per meter).
So much engineering went into the creating and testing of an object which is purely for amusement. Unlike minute repeaters that chime and at least tell the time, the complication in the Jaquet Droz Grande Heure Onyx Replica Charming Bird is used exclusively for spectacle. What is that complication, exactly? Activate the “the charming bird,” and carefully hand-painted bird figuring comes alive with animation and the watch sounds like a bird singing.
The most impressive part of the Jaquet Droz Charming Bird is this system which creates a modern version of the bellows and pistons system which for centuries has been used to mimic bird calls. This is the luxury world we are talking about, so in the Jaquet Droz Charming Bird the system, to make the bird sing and move uses some of the best materials and complex micro-engineering feats. Sapphire crystal is used for the bellow tubes, and the piston heads are produced from carbon. The size of the tube and the speed of the piston are what control the sound they emit. The pistons together play “different notes” which very much sound like a singing bird.
A careful comparison between the in-house movements from the 2013 Jaquet Droz History Replica The Charming Bird watch prototype and 2015’s final version reveal subtle but important differences. The watches are essentially the same, but in the final version, the movement has been reworked, with elements moved around and lots of improvements made. Many of those improvements relate to the volume and quality of the sound as well as the overall durability of the mechanism. Nothing quite like this has ever been produced in wrist watch form, to my knowledge.
At 47mm wide, initially in 18k white or red gold, Jaquet Droz will produce the Jaquet Droz Charming Bird as a limited edition. With that said it will likely produce more versions of the Jaquet Droz Charming Bird watch in the future in different materials or dial styles. The debut model goes for a fully open dial which allows you to appreciate the mechanism in action – which is, of course, going to be much more interesting than, say… a minute repeater.
What the singing and dancing bird complication lacks in basic utility, it makes up for in showmanship. Automatons have been entertaining people for literally hundreds of years. We seem to be fascinated by human attempts to reproduce nature (something we are getting better and better at). A machine that mimics the movements and sound of an actual bird is exactly the type of mechanism that captures our attention so well.
It is perhaps more accurate to say that the majority of people who will own the Jaquet Droz Signing Machine Replica Charming Bird will do so as a collectible novelty to be played with on occasion and rarely worn. This is understandable given the precious nature of the watch as well as its delicate design. Nevertheless, Jaquet Droz designed the watch as a perfectly wearable item with a bold look which begs for conversation. It is also among the few ultra-high-end mechanical watch complications that novices who know nothing about the horological world can appreciate. Nothing sparks a conversation like, “I couldn’t help but overhear your watch chirping.” So the person with the several-hundred-thousand-dollar-per-watch budget interested in the Jaquet Droz Charming Bird needs to ask themselves… “can I make use of that extra charm in my life?”
Inside the Jaquet Droz Charming Bird is the Jaquet Droz exclusive caliber 615 automatic movement. That’s right, with everything else going on, the movement is also self-winding with a solid platinum rotor. It also uses silicon in the movement and operates at 3Hz with a power reserve of 38 hours. That is just to power the off-centered dial which indicates the time. I don’t actually think the “watch mechanism” is related to the charming bird complication. Not only is that wound using the other crown, but it is activated with it as well. I could be wrong, but I believe the bird system is separate from that used to indicate the time. Actually, Jaquet Droz amusingly refers to it as the “singing bird action.”
It isn’t worth explaining what watching the small bird in its animated state looks like, as we have a video in this post, as well as more in the original article from 2013 which is linked to above. It is very impressive to watch the little automaton with its many distinct parts rotating, flapping its wings, and moving its beak. The impressively life-like motion is not only a testament to the Jaquet Droz Brand Review Replica of today, but of the Jaquet Droz of yesterday and his contemporaries who produced similar items. Jaquet Droz has been open with the obvious fact that to build something like the Jaquet Droz Charming Bird watch, they needed to study historical examples of similar objects.
Bold, luxuriously without utility, and wonderful to look at, the Jaquet Droz The Charming Bird is the best kind of rich-boy toy because it is impressive without being at all controversial. Well, it does tell the time. Actually, is it fair to say the complication is without utility? Each time I see the “singing bird action” in operation I quickly develop a smile on my face. Jaquet Droz will produce the Jaquet Droz Charming Bird ref. J031533240 in 18k red gold which will be limited to just 28 pieces, and the ref. J031534240 in 18k white gold will also be limited to 28 pieces. Price for the watch is 380,000 Swiss Francs. jaquet-droz.com
The Grande Seconde is to Jaquet Droz what the Lange One is to A. Lange & Söhne as the brand’s flagship collection and signature look. The name and company Jaquet Droz were acquired by the Swatch Group at the turn of the millennium, and two years later, it launched the Grande Seconde, which was inspired by an old Jaquet Droz pocket watch from the 18th century. It is a simple but pleasing design, consisting of a subdial that tells the main hour at 12 o’clock and a larger overlapping subdial at 6 o’clock that shows the running seconds – hence the name Grande Seconde. Now, Jaquet Droz has added three new models to its Grande Seconde lineup, all of which have ceramic cases and clous de Paris dials with the new Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Ceramic Clous de Paris watches.
The new Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Ivory Enamel Replica Grande Seconde Ceramic comes in three variants. There are two that come in a black ceramic case and one that comes in a white ceramic case. Let’s talk about the lone white ceramic model first, which is simply called the Grande Seconde Ceramic watch. It features a pristine white ceramic case that measures 44mm wide and is 12.23mm in height. That tells you that it is intended as a men’s watch, even though white ceramic watches – especially with gold accents such as this – are often strongly associated with women’s watches. The main dial itself is elaborately decorated with white clous de Paris guilloche, while the overlapping subdials that tell the time and running seconds are made out of white ceramic.
On the ceramic white subdials are black printouts that mark out the hours and tens of seconds. Both subdials also have a railroad-style track around the periphery to aid in legibility. The hour and minute hands, as well as the large running seconds hands, are all made out of 18k red gold. For a dash of color, the crown is also made out of 18k red gold. What’s also really cool is that the watch will come with a matching rolled-edge hand-made fabric strap. It looks really nice from the press photos, though being white, I’m worried it might get stained easily.
There’s also a black ceramic version of the above-mentioned model called the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Black Ceramic Clous de Paris. In place of a pure white ceramic case, we have a black ceramic case. The dial is also black and also decorated with clous de Paris guilloche. The overlapping subdials for the time and running seconds are, as you might have guessed, in black ceramic. Like the white model, the hour, minute and seconds hands are made out of 18k red gold, which contrasts strongly against the black dial. The crown, however, is black ceramic and not 18k red gold like the white ceramic version. The watch also comes with a matching roll-edged hand-made black fabric strap.
These two models are powered by the self-winding Jaquet Droz 2663A, which beats at 4Hz and has a power reserve of 68 hours. The movement looks to be fairly handsomely decorated with traditional finishing techniques like côtes de Genève, circular graining, and polished surfaces. On the black ceramic model, the movement is treated with ruthenium to give it a dark look. In addition, its rotor has also been coated with black PVD so that it complements the black ceramic case.
Finally, we have the Grande Seconde Power Reserve Ceramic Clous de Paris. This comes in a 44mm black ceramic case, but it is slightly thicker at 13.03mm because of its movement. It is mostly similar to the Grande Seconde Black Ceramic Clous de Paris watch, except that it has a power reserve indicator on the dial at 9 o’clock. Like the Grande Seconde Black Ceramic Clous de Paris watch, the Grande Seconde Power Reserve Ceramic Clous de Paris watch has a black dial decorated with Clous de Paris guilloche, and 18k red gold hands for the hours, minutes, and seconds. The power reserve scale is smartly marked using red gold, while the hand for the power reserve indicator is black-colored gold. Overall, the power reserve indicator has been cleanly and neatly implemented. Oh, this model has the same black fabric strap that echoes the dial texture as it does on each watch. Nice.
The Grande Seconde Power Reserve Ceramic Clous de Paris is powered by the self-winding Jaquet Droz 4063D-S, which also beats at 4Hz and has a power reserve of 68 hours. The movement is treated with ruthenium and has a black PVD rotor to give it a dark look to match the black ceramic case.
All things considered, these new Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Ceramic watches are pretty interesting in that they pair the classic and understated design of the original Grande Seconde watch with modern ceramic material. The end result, judging from the press photos at least, looks rather nice to me. Certainly, these ceramic models will be significantly more scratch resistant than the non-ceramic variants that are in stainless steel or gold. The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde White and Black Ceramic Clous de Paris are both priced at $14,600 each. The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Power Reserve Ceramic Clous de Paris, on the other hand, is $16,800. Each is limited to 28 pieces. jaquet-droz.com
That said, the Sinn EZM 12 Air Rescue is most likely one of Sinn’s very esoteric tool watches yet, designed through direct input from the elite German Air Rescue Team, who required three timekeeping elements unique to EMS. Every one of these elements represent a different interval as it regards triage and prey care: an internal rotating count-up bezel for measuring the first ten minutes following arrival (the aforementioned “platinum ten”), an exterior rotating countdown bezel for measuring the “golden hour,” or the period of time in which arrival in a hospital or stopping blood loss offers the greatest chance of survival, and a pulsometer integrated in the seconds hand with an accompanying graduated scale.It’s an awful lot to take in, also it ultimately yields a pretty busy dialup, but if you look carefully, you can see all the different scales and their respective reference points, cleanly laid out to remind the wearer that crucial patients want treatment and transportation from the first ten minutes, along with any patient should arrive at a hospital within one hour of the crash. Simple, right?Now, how tightly a flight medic will be able to monitor all this while in the chaos of a injury incident is probably a legitimate query, but it does little to alter the fact that this is still an exceptionally cool, perfectly legible view — at least under the bright lights of the conference hall. That said, the PulsRotor minutes hand is likely to be the watch’s most underrated feature. In static images, the seconds hand seems trendy, but with all four points rotating at once, it may take a little getting used to. To be honest, placing a pulsometer whose scale only utilizes half the dial on a three-handed watch is really clever, but to pull it off, so you do need a running moments hand that has repeating indexes on the conventional 15-second foundation of measurement — which, in this case, happens to conveniently look a good deal like a helicopter rotor.
With the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time watch, the Swiss watch maker aims to add elegance to the notion of a GMT-style travel watch. Does it work? Let’s find out… For about 15 years now, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde has been among the more characterful dress watches around and has earned its share of fans and admirers. Aside from a few interesting line extensions such as the Grande Second Tourbillon and a minute repeater, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde watch collection has more or less remained a time-only set of watches. With that said, over the last coupe of years, that has been changing.
In 2014, Jaquet Droz introduced a new exclusive base movement developed for them by partners in the Swatch Group. This new base movement was not only more attractive and of a higher quality than previous movements used in the Grande Seconde family but, as far as I can tell, also serves as a base upon which to add various complications. Thus, you have the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time which has the time along with the date and a GMT hand.
This addition of complications to the Jaquet Droz 17 Jewels Incabloc Replica Grande Seconde began in 2014 as they released the Grande Second Quantieme which simply put in a date indicator hand on the dial. In the scheme of Grande Seconde collection models, that was a big deal, and it was also important because of the availability of a steel model. For 2016, Jaquet Droz adds an additional complication by placing a GMT hand into the mix, which means the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time offers the time, date, and GMT hand – and yes, it all looks rather elegant.
At launch, Jaquet Droz offers three versions of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time with two steel models (silver dial reference J016030240, and onyx dial reference J016030270) and an 18k red gold model (reference J016033200). Visually, these look almost identical to the Grande Seconde Quantieme models, but with the addition of a new hand and additional scale in the lower subdial. Jaquet Droz is, of course, careful to retain the figure-eight-style layout of the face with the two stacked dials.
The good news is that we now have a very elegant travel watch; the less good news is that the GMT indicator hand isn’t super easy to read. The lower subdial now has three hands, and the least easy to read is the GMT hand. Even the date indicator hand has a red tip and a bigger scale. As a GMT watch which is primarily used to know the local time and occasionally used to to reference a second timezone, the The Jaquet Droz Replica Grande Seconde Dual Time works fine, but I am not sure how comfortable the watch is when it comes to needing to know two time zones easily. With that said, beauty has value right?
This time around, the 3006 is an entirely new reference, although most closely resembling the existing 6052 Frankfurt Am Main calendar chronograph. However, the situation was upsized to 44mm, also constructed with Sinn’s trademark ultra-hard tegimented steel, which shrugs off even challenging scratches with surprising simplicity. The water resistance has been upped to 200m, and in addition, it has Sinn’s exceptional AR technology — a dehumidifying copper sulfate capsule that keeps the internals dry, and also can stop the dial from fogging during accelerated temperature change.Speaking of internals, the 3006 is outfitted with the Valjoux 7751 (a slight twist on the conventional 7750 which Sinn loves to use), which is characterized by a full calendar in 12:00, a pointer date encircling the dial, and chronograph enrolls at 12:00 and 6:00, together with a 24-hour enroll at 9:00. Overall, the dial is very active, but still plenty legible, with everything neatly in its own place, in prototypical Sinn fashion. Continuing the customs of this Jagduhr collection, this Sinn Hunting Watch 3006 is clad in olive drab green, with beige Super-LumiNova mark during — such as the new moonphase itself in 6:00. So why a moonphase anyway? In Germany, federal searching laws dictate that artificial light sources can’t be used while hunting, so utilizing a little bit of field knowledge round the moon’s cycles could be beneficial, as the best natural nighttime and early morning lighting is known to be inside three times before and following a complete moon. And provided that the luminous moon index is falling within the assortment of the curved beige cross at 6:00, your chances of bringing home dinner are significantly improved.Like that the EZM 12 Air Rescue watch intended for air travel medics and published at Basel this past season, the Sinn Jagduhr 3006 Hunting Chronograph is just another extremely niche variant, but one having real, purpose-built practicality in mind — even though it lacks the ability to be stripped and cleaned like the aforementioned EZM 12. Maybe field dressing is not something in Germany? Or maybe that is why it does not possess a bezel?
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time watches are 43mm wide in a larger, yet comfortable case that is all about making a visual statement, even if that statement is an elegant one. The case is further 13.13mm thick but only water-resistant to 30 meters. It does feel as though the case could easily be 50-100 meters water-resistant with minimal changes. Jaquet Droz is always good about complementing the attractively curvaceous case with a fantastic “rolled-edge” alligator strap. I love these because they hide all stitching on the back of the strap which, in my opinion, makes for a superior look.
The 18k red gold version of the Jaquet Droz Bird Youtube Replica Grande Seconde Dual Time benefits from an ivory-colored grand feu enamel dial – which looks beautiful. The black-dialed steel model has a solid onyx dial – which is gorgeous, but can have legibility issues depending on the light. Probably the most practical model is the steel with silver opaline dial which has a good level of contrast and finishes making for a very legible dial.
Viewable through the sapphire crystal caseback window is the exclusive Jaquet Droz The Writer Replica caliber 2663H24 automatic movement with a solid gold rotor. It’s a fine and fitting movement for this application given its technology and attractive decoration. Operating at 4Hz (28,800bph), the movement has a power reserve of 65 hours across two mainspring barrels and further includes silicon parts such as the balance spring and escapement.
Attractive and now with additional utility, Jaquet Droz continues to make its Grande Seconde watch collection more attractive for buyers wanting style, functionality, and value. Collectors demand a lot these days, and it is good to see that Jaquet Droz is offering updates and attractive features both internally and externally in their newest timepieces. Price for the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time is $16,000 for the reference J016030240 in steel with onyx, $17,500 for the reference J016030270 in steel with silver dial, and $26,800 for the reference J016033200 in 18k red gold. jaquet-droz.com
This time around, the 3006 is an entirely new reference, although most closely resembling the present 6052 Frankfurt Am Main calendar chronograph. However, the situation was upsized to 44mm, also built with Sinn’s trademark ultra-hard tegimented steel, which shrugs off even hard scratches with surprising ease. The water resistance has been upped to 200m, and in addition, it has Sinn’s unique AR technologies — a dehumidifying copper sulfate capsule that keeps the internals dry, and will stop the dial from fogging during rapid temperature change.Speaking of internals, the 3006 is outfitted with all the Valjoux 7751 (a slight twist on the conventional 7750 that Sinn loves to use), that is distinguished by a full calendar in 12:00, a pointer date encircling the dial, and chronograph registers at 12:00 and 6:00, along with a 24-hour enroll at 9:00. All in all, the dial is very busy, but still lots legible, with everything neatly in its place, in prototypical Sinn style. Continuing the customs of the Jagduhr collection, this Sinn Hunting Watch 3006 is clad in olive drab green, with beige Super-LumiNova mark during — such as the brand new moonphase itself at 6:00. Why a moonphase anyway? In Germany, national hunting laws dictate that artificial lighting sources cannot be used while searching, so utilizing a little bit of field knowledge round the moon’s cycles can be advantageous, as the best natural night and early morning lighting is regarded as within three times before and after a full moon. And provided that the luminous moon index is falling over the range of the curved beige cross at 6:00, your chances of bringing home dinner are substantially improved.Like the EZM 12 Air Rescue watch designed for air travel medics and released at Basel last year, the Sinn Jagduhr 3006 Hunting Chronograph is another extremely niche variant, but one having genuine, purpose-built practicality in mind — even if it lacks the ability to be stripped and cleaned like the above EZM 12. Maybe field dressing is not a thing in Germany? Or perhaps that’s why it does not have a bezel?
Over the past year or two, I have found dial configurations that purposely have things a bit off-kilter catching my eye. Do not get me wrong, I still have great love for a highly symmetrical dial. It is just that, sometimes, you want to mix things up a bit and have your familiar watch wrangled into something slightly different. That is where watches like the just-announced Jaquet Droz Watch History Replica Grande Seconde Off-Centered come into play.
I will admit that, at first, I thought I was seeing a watch that was coming from fellow Swatch Group brand Glashütte Original, given their design language sometimes includes having overlapping dials as well (as shown on the Panoreserve reviewed here). While not a bad mental association to have, especially as it is all within the family, this is decidedly a Jaquet Droz Eclipse Watch Replica piece, as it is very much a dress watch. I was struck by how it maintained a clean simplicity while still giving off that air of refinement and luxury. In other words, while this watch is stripped down to its barest elements, it was done so to make it understated, not to be a loud proclamation of sterility. While that comes from the initial impression, you really start to see refinement shining when you look into the materials used.
I appreciate the use stainless steel on the 43mm case of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Off-Centered watch, and though it is not what you might expect, I like the idea of dress watches showing up in steel. Sure, precious metals are nice, but they lift the price without offering much over steel in terms of what you get for day-to-day wear. That is not to say the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Off-Centered is devoid of any gold. To the contrary – the rings surrounding the two sub-dials are made of polished white gold, which will no doubt catch the light quite nicely. How do you get indices here without interrupting the clean lines? It’s simple – you just notch them into the rings themselves.
The most intriguing individual aspect of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Off-Centered watch, for me, is what those gold rings are set into. In this case, it is a cut and polished piece of onyx. I have seen a few dials here and there made of stone or minerals, and they always seem to bring something unique to the equation. Here, with the black onyx, it gives the impression that the rings are floating in a dark pond, it is so liquid-like.
The Jaquet Droz Watch History Replica Grande Seconde Off-Centered watch features the Jacquet Droz 2663A.P self-winding movement which features a silicon balance spring and pallet horns, double barrel, flat bridges, and heavy metal oscillating weight. It operates at 28,800bph and has a power reserve of 68 hours.
For me, it truly is the design of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Off-Centered that sells the watch. It takes that overlapping figure-eight that the brand is known for, distills it down into its essence, and then puts such a coat of polish on it that it all but begs you to pull out a tuxedo to wear with the watch. This even allows me to get past my general dislike of watches that put the main timekeeping (hours and minutes) in a subordinate position on the watch, literally or figuratively. Yes, the sub-seconds are less useful on a daily basis, but you could look at this as almost the antithesis of a one-handed watch. You are acutely and easily aware of each second ticking away. If you are watching the time go, you might as well watch it in an highly-polished and refined package. Price for the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Off-Centered watch is expected to be CHF 10,200.jaquet-droz.com
The irony of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme watch was that it was originally released in steel, as a lower-priced model for the high-end brand. This was back in 2011, and we offered a review of the steel Jaquet Droz Grande Second Quantieme watch here. For 2014, Jaquet Droz releases some new versions of the this “calendar” (quantieme) version of its Grande Seconde watch in gold as well as with enamel dials.
More so, the 2014 Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel watches contain brand new movements which Jaquet Droz will use to help distinguish their timepieces. Jaquet Droz is part of the Swatch Group and received high-end movements from the group, but starting with this new collection, the movements will be much nicer with better specs and an improved visual aesthetic.
So allow me to begin by discussing the movements used in the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel watches. Both the larger and smaller diameter versions of the watch will have the same movement, which will have an automatic rotor in a metal to match the case (either 18k red or white gold). The movement is the Jaquet Droz caliber 2660Q2.P automatic with a silicon hair spring and double power reserves. The movement operates at 4Hz (28,800 bph) and has a power reserve of 68 hours. The decoration is impressively nice and the work on the automatic rotor is quite fantastic. This is really the direction Jaquet Droz needed to go in order to help position not only their designs, but their movements for the high-end consumer.
The new movement offers the same features as before which include the hours and minutes in an off-center display above a larger subdial for the seconds. The lower subdial further includes a date indicator dial, which is why this Grande Seconde model is referred to as the “Quantieme.” The addition of the date slightly disrupts the austere beauty of the Grande Seconde versions with just the time, but many people find the added complication quite useful.
Jaquet Droz will produce the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme watch in both 18k red gold and white gold versions, as well as in both 39mm wide and 43mm wide cases. The thickness of each version is virtually the same at just over 12mm. Jaquet Droz is popular in many Asian markets, which is why the 39mm wide version is available in addition to the existing 43mm wide version. Given the starkness of the dial I find that the larger size of the case offers a nice statement on the wrist. It is really nice to wear a Jaquet Droz if you appreciate their penchant for dial cleanliness.
As well as being offered in 18k red or white gold, the 2014 Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme watches offer “Ivory Enamel” dials. Jaquet Droz likes to think of themselves as a specialist in enamel dials, and true enough, they do some very impressive stuff with their limited editions. These watches offer more simple yet attractive enamel painted and baked dials which offer a crisp legible look against the ivory white color of the face. Both the 18k red and white gold versions have the same ivory dial colors.
Sinn is a Frankfurt-based manufacturer possibly best known for their “instrument” watches; tough timepieces with generally German heights of over-engineering designed to handle whatever the wearer can throw at them. Despite this reputation, Sinn does, naturally, release dress watches, such as the 1800 S Damaszener or their beautiful 1746 Porcelain collection. Last year’s 6200 Meisterbund I see rose gold has been re-released in white gold with all the Sinn 6200 WG Meisterbund I that we’ll have a look at here.Getting away from this view for a little time to go over the brand’s history, Sinn premiered in 1961 in Frankfurt, Germany by pilot and flight instructor Helmut Sinn. The company’s initial focus has been the manufacture of cockpit aviation and clocks chronographs that were sold directly to the client, bypassing retailers. In 1994 Helmut Sinn offered the company to Lothar Schmidt, an engineer and former employee of International Watch Company (IWC) in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. Under Schmidt’s leadership, Sinn developed a reputation for over-engineered tough watches and goes on to supply watches for the German national police (GSG 9), the fire service, and specialist divers and pilots.This legacy allows Sinn to occupy a cozy niche in the German watch industry as a professional in professional watches, but bits like the 6200 WG Meisterbund I and its own rose gold sibling provide a well-decorated manufacture calibre out of Uhren-Werke-Dresden (UWD) plus a precious metal case engineered by Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH (SUG).
The crown and pushers are equally screw down and big enough to be simple to use and not too fiddly. I really don’t find it fitting in rather well with formal office wear however with jeans and a t-shirt or should you happen to have a non-desk diving occupation, the Sinn 103 should fit straight in rather than be too conspicuous. The watch can be found on a rubber or leather strap, or Sinn’s solidly constructed H-link bracelet. While I am personally a fan of Sinn’s nice link bracelet, I think that the H-link variant is much better suited here provided the larger case size.As a pilot’s view, the dial on the Sinn 103 St Sa E is matte black with contrasting text and indices to optimize legibility. The hour markers are painted and Arabic on the dial with the faux-patina lume that’s a signature to this variant. The syringe palms will also be filled with the exact same lume and carries the classic feel of the whole watch up a notch. The faux patina maintains the high contrast with the dial needed for the legibility that pilot watches are famous for.The sub-dial in 12:00 suggests chronograph minutes, the one at 6:00 the chronograph hours, and also the one at 9:00 is for continuous seconds. At 3:00, we have the day-date indicator, which happily is black with white text on it. This keeps legibility when helping it blend nicely with all the dial. A white with black text version could look bad, to put it plainly. The date wheel in the opinion we got our hands on was in German, which can be very common for Sinn. However, I do think English date wheels are available, especially if bought through their American distributor, WatchBuys.I think the usage of faux-patina lume might be a little too much for some collectors — although I personally dig it. Should you happen to be in the camp which would like it without, worry not, for Sinn has other variants of the Sinn 103. Quibbling over lume color aside, it is difficult to argue that this can be a nice tool watch really. The only two missing Sinn technologies are the tegimented steel and argon humidity index for its water-proofing system, but people who would add additional cost to manufacturing, not to mention that the tegimented steel’s dark grey will not suit this watch nicely.
In the past, Jaquet Droz experimented with darker dial colors for the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme and other models in the Grande Seconde collection. I don’t think they worked as well as lighter color dials because legibility was greatly affected. That doesn’t mean that they aren’t good dark dial colors of the Grande Seconde, but they are less common than the ivory, white, or silver colored dials. That is just sort of the way it is if you are interested in legibility (and you should be interested in legibility).
A common question I find myself asking is whether or not the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde watch collection is for dressy or casual attire – or both. It isn’t exactly a dress watch with its burlier yet refined case, and it isn’t a sport watch with its more elegant presentation and dial design (and only 30 meters of water resistance). The people I’ve seen wearing Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde watches in public tend to be independent thinkers with a stylish twist and often a deep love of watches. No matter how elegant or quirky a Jaquet Droz watch is, the brand is undeniably avant garde – which makes it rather unique among the Swatch Group brands.
Jaquet Droz is among the most unique of the Swatch Group’s high-end brands, known for their excellence in traditional decoration methods as well as their use of automata, or moving mechanical devices meant to imitate life. The Jaquet Droz Tropical Bird Repeater is the latest creation of mechanical artistry from the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture, celebrating the Enlightenment-era passion for nature and animals of brand founder and namesake Pierre Jaquet-Droz.
Pierre Jaquet-Droz opened his first workshop in 1738, and within a few decades had become known internationally as a master of elaborate pocket watches, mechanical singing birds, and automata. In 1759, Droz presented a mechanical clock to King Ferdinand VI of Spain, featuring a shepherd playing the flute and a dog guarding a basket of apples. When the King reached forward to take one of the apples, the mechanical dog began barking with such a natural sound that the King’s own dog began barking in response, and most of the courtiers fled the room fearing witchcraft.
After Droz proved that the mechanism worked via natural means and was not the result of sorcery, the King paid handsomely for the “Shepherd’s Clock” which is still on display in the Spanish palace museum. The fame and funding from this venture led Droz to produce ever more astonishing works of automata, such as The Writer. In many ways, these were precursors to modern computers, and a testament to the astonishing engineering skill of Droz for his time.
Despite his fame and ability, Droz’s workshop went into liquidation in 1790 when drafts made on their principal correspondent in China came back unpaid and their principal client in London failed. In 2000, the Swatch Group acquired the brand and re-established Jaquet Droz in their town of origin, La Chaux-de-Fonds. Since then, the brand has been paying tribute to the skills and passions of the founder, releasing the first Bird Repeater in 2012 (revisited hands-on here) and perfecting it further with the Charming Bird watch in 2015 (hands-on). The latest Jaquet Droz Tropical Bird Repeater combines two of this maison‘s eight “codes” or primary disciplines, automata and Ateliers d’Art, or the decorative arts.
The dial on the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Replica Tropical Bird Repeater is made of mother of pearl, hand-engraved and painted to depict a lush forest scene. When the minute repeater function is activated, there are seven animated elements on the dial which spring to life:
The waterfall in the background appears to flow.
The hummingbird occupying the centre of the dial moves towards the shrub of bright orange birds of paradise near 9 o’clock and beats its wings up to 40 times per second.
The peacock at 5 o’clock opens and closes its tail feathers.
The toucan near 3 o’clock emerges from the palm leaves and can open and close its beak.
Three dragonflies near 9 o’clock flit around and flap tiny Super-Luminova coated wings, which should look particularly attractive in low light.
If you look for the most literal interpretation, you’re likely to locate ISO 6425, that outlines a rigorous set of internationally defined guidelines for functionality, durability, and legibility, ultimately governing what can and cannot be officially referred to as a real “dive watch.” Along those very same lines but for aviator watches, Sinn has just announced the debut of DIN 8330 — a new German business standard spearheaded by the watchmaker, and anchored by a trio of new pilot sequences, purpose-built and formally certified to be functionally safe and reliable in the cockpit. Debuting the certification would be the Sinn 103 Ti IFR, Sinn 103 Ti UTC IFR, as well as the Sinn 857 UTC VFR watches.If this seems familiar, notice that this new standard takes Sinn’s independently developed TESTAF (Technischer Standard Fliegeruhren) standard to another level as a nationally-recognized DIN standard. Here, we have an official aviator’s equal to the DIN and ISO standards which have long dominated other tropical realms of purpose-built watchmaking. At the risk of oversimplifying things, consider this as the ISO 6425 of bunny sequences, open to any German watchmaker for consideration.The ink was barely dry on TESTAF’s introduction in 2012 when Sinn began campaigning for a more robust industry-wide DIN benchmark for all pilot watches. However, executing this required widespread alliance from German governing bodies and the sector as a whole — especially, consultation by Lufthansa Cargo, Airbus Helicopters, and other German watchmakers such as Stowa, Hanhart, and Glashütte Original; afterward help from risk management company DNV GL who advised the certification criteria and process; and finally, the University of Applied Sciences FH Aachen who functioned as the testing institute. The end result is really a collaborative set of criteria which simplifies all of German aviator watches deployed in professional and civilian air traffic alike.
The animations can exceed 12 seconds and play out four different scenarios, which is a serious level of automation to pack into a 47mm-wide by 18.95mm-thick wristwatch case. Every element on this dial is decorated by hand, with an off-centre subdial in onyx near 12 o’clock to indicate hours and minutes.
The case of the Jaquet Droz Legend Geneva Replica Tropical Bird Repeater is made of 18 karat red gold and features yet more hand-applied engraving along the sides and lugs. It comes supplied with a rolled-edge dark green alligator strap which nicely matches the flora in the depicted scene. The watch is not water-resistant, though I don’t imagine many owners will attempt to shower or swim with one of these on anyway.
This time around, the 3006 is an entirely new reference, though most closely resembling the present 6052 Frankfurt Am Main calendar chronograph. On the other hand, the case has been upsized to 44mm, also constructed with Sinn’s signature ultra-hard tegimented steel, which shrugs off even challenging scratches with surprising simplicity. The water resistance has been upped to 200m, and in addition, it gets Sinn’s exceptional AR technologies — a dehumidifying copper sulfate capsule which keeps the internals dry, and can stop the flow from fogging during accelerated temperature change.Speaking of internals, the 3006 is outfitted with all the Valjoux 7751 (a slight twist on the conventional 7750 that Sinn loves to utilize), which is characterized by a full calendar in 12:00, a pointer date encircling the dial, and chronograph registers at 12:00 and 6:00, together with a 24-hour register at 9:00. All in all, the dial is still quite active, but still plenty legible, with everything neatly in its own place, in prototypical Sinn fashion. Continuing the customs of this Jagduhr collection, this Sinn Hunting Watch 3006 is clad in olive drab green, with beige Super-LumiNova mark during — including the new moonphase itself in 6:00. Why a moonphase anyway? Well, in Germany, federal searching legislation dictate that artificial lighting sources cannot be used while hunting, so utilizing a bit of field knowledge around the moon’s cycles can be beneficial, as the best natural nighttime and early morning lighting is known to be within three times before and after a complete moon. And provided that the luminous moon index is falling over the range of the curved beige cross at 6:00, your chances of bringing home dinner are significantly improved.Like the EZM 12 Air Rescue watch intended for air travel medics and published at Basel last season, the Sinn Jagduhr 3006 Hunting Chronograph is another extremely niche variant, but one having genuine, purpose-built practicality in mind — even though it lacks the ability to be stripped and stripped like the above EZM 12. Maybe field dressing isn’t a thing in Germany? Or perhaps that is why it does not possess a bezel?
The crown and pushers are equally screw down and big enough to be easy to use and not overly fiddly. I really don’t see it fitting in quite well with formal office wear but with jeans and a t-shirt or should you happen to have a non-desk diving occupation, the Sinn 103 must fit right in and not be overly conspicuous. The watch is available on a rubber or leather strap, or Sinn’s solidly constructed H-link bracelet. While I am personally a fan of Sinn’s fine link bracelet, I believe that the H-link version is better suited here provided the larger case size.As a pilot’s view, the dial on the Sinn 103 St Sa E is matte black with contrasting text and indices to maximize legibility. The hour markers are Arabic and painted on the dial using the faux-patina lume that is a signature to this particular variant. The syringe hands will also be filled with the same lume and carries the vintage feel of the entire watch a notch up. The faux patina keeps the high contrast with the dial required for the legibility that pilot watches are famous for.The sub-dial in 12:00 suggests chronograph moments, the one at 6:00 the chronograph hours, and the one at 9:00 is for continuous minutes. At 3:00, we have the day-date indicator, which thankfully is black with white text on it. This keeps legibility while helping it blend in well with all the dial. The date wheel in the opinion we all got our hands on was in German, which is very common for Sinn. But, I do think English date wheels can be found, particularly if bought through their American distributor, WatchBuys.I think the usage of faux-patina lume may be a bit too much for a few collectors — although I personally dig it. Should you have been in the camp which would prefer it without, worry not, for Sinn has other variations of the Sinn 103. Quibbling over lume color aside, it is difficult to argue that this can be a nice tool watch really. The only two lost Sinn technologies would be the tegimented steel and argon humidity indicator to its water-proofing system, but people who would add additional cost to production, and of course the tegimented steel’s dark grey will not match this watch well.
That is a delicately finished apparel piece in precious metal — a cooperation between three German firms who each bring specialist skills to the table. The Sinn 6200 WG Meisterbund I will be cased by precisely the exact same manufacturer that provides A. Lange & Söhne, provides an insanely intriguing movement produced by UWD, and shows a well-decorated yet legible dial characteristic of Sinn Spezialuhren. Although it’s up against some strong competition from fellow German (and of course Swiss) watchmakers at this cost, I could picture 55 people enjoying the workmanship and watchmaking that goes into a piece like this.You don’t need to live in a household where the very first week of November is an observed holiday to love the arrival of Sinn’s annual “Jagduhr” (hunting watch) collection — this year taking the form of the Sinn Hunting Watch 3006. Hell, even though your “holy trinity” doesn’t happen to comprise Smith & Wesson or Cabela’s — you still may want to maintain reading.Now in the fourth iteration of the yearly series, the newly announced Jagduhr 3006 Hunting Chronograph (or however you may choose to refer to it) brings a fantastic new complication to the mix: a luminescent, day/night moonphase in addition to some 24-hour indicator, pointer date, along with a complete calendar — all of which ought to prove handy for anyone who may eliminate track of time whilst bumping into a tree, waiting for sport to wander into their scope.The Jagduhr series got its start with this rather basic “Paul Parey” special variant 756, then continued with more rocky offerings, like last year’s entrance dependent on the U1000, or even the preceding season’s predicated on the 757 UTC pilot’s view — both of which, were essentially re-skinned in green, and didn’t bring anything new complication-wise into the table.
Visible through the sapphire exhibition caseback is the Jaquet Droz RMA89 hand-wound minute repeater movement with a single barrel which offers a 60-hour power reserve. That power reserve is up from the RMA88’s 48 hours used in previous Bird Repeater watches, and we will assume that maximum power reserve refers to use of the watch without running its massively complex and undoubtedly power-consuming chiming and automata mechanisms – the hummingbird’s wings beating 40 times per second is faster than some larger species of real hummingbirds.
Like every other element of the Jaquet Droz Tropical Bird Repeater, this movement is meticulously hand-decorated, with Côtes de Genève, perlage on the base plate, and polished surfaces. Fantastic to admire in and of itself, some past Bird Repeater watches went even more next-level by engraving the movement with, for example, leaf motifs (see the above linked-to Bird Repeater article) that feel even more congruous with the overall watch than this traditional finishing. The movement features 86 jewels and a balance spring which oscillates at 21,600 vph, or 3Hz. A clef symbol etched into a spur of red gold just underneath the striking hammers refers to the musical nature of the movement.
Lothar Schmidt is currently a shareholder in SUG, that really are a professional case maker that have historically supplied steel instances for Sinn and valuable metal cases for A. Lange & Söhne. The case of the Sinn 6200 WG Meisterbund I is manufactured by SUG in a palladium-rich alloy of white gold, which demands no rhodium plating to maintain its silver colour and should be well tolerated by wearers with nickel allergies. The case measures 40mm by 9.3mm, which makes it slender, yet contemporary in look and well suited to apparel watch duties.The lugs are brief and curved to enhance the slender profile, and the faces of the case are satin-brushed to comparison with the polished bezel. This case indicates a degree of finishing up to A. Lange & Söhne criteria, which is appropriate considering it had been fabricated by precisely the same supplier. The case is farther water-resistant to 10 Bar (approximately 100m), which can be considerable for a precious metal dress piece but not unexpected given Sinn’s proclivity for tough timepieces. The Sinn 6200 WG Meisterbund I comes attached to either a mocha or black alligator leather strap, also includes a wooden display box with a loupe to admire the nice detailing in the dial along with movement.The Sinn 6200 WG Meisterbund I features an anthracite dial, decorated with fine guilloché in radial waves emanating from the dial’s center. The effect looks like a sunburst finish at first glance, but reveals greater detail and visual interest when scrutinized closely. The hour indicators are implemented and have a distinctive elongated or “stretched” look, which will no doubt establish a contentious design option, but one which I personally quite like. Printed white Arabic numerals mark every 10-minute interval around the dial, which detracts somewhat from the elegance of this timepiece but does serve to increase legibility. Surrounding the dial is a railroad minute trail with applied metal indicators every hour, presumably also made from white gold.
While none of the whimsical high complications expressed in this watch represent any sort of a gain in utility for the wearer, that was never the point, of course. Jaquet Droz is not the only manufacturer offering automata in wristwatch form, with other recent examples including the Van Cleef & Arpels Ronde Des Papillons and the Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Pin-Up, but Jaquet Droz really goes the extra mile in terms of its decorative arts and complexity of the automata. Only 8 pieces of the Jaquet Droz Tropical Bird Repeater watch are being produced, with an asking price of $661,500 each. jaquet-droz.com
While we may all feel as we understand Sinn and have a grip on their overall taste, Baselworld 2016 showed that Sinn is still capable of surprising and that their game is not only tool sailors and hardcore pilot watches. From the elaborate 6200 Meisterbund to the rather rakishly handsome 910 Anniversary chronograph, Sinn’s 2016 Baselworld lineup was an impressive pivot from their more common watch stylings.We’ll depart the 6200 for another post and focus on the sporty and versatile Sinn 910 Anniversary. Designed for Sinn’s 55th Anniversary, this limited edition chronograph is equal parts form and function with a 41.5millimeter steel case housing a column wheel split second automatic chronograph movement. Thickness is 15.5mm, with anti-reflective sapphire crystals front and back protecting a nicely finished motion and a gorgeous hot tan dial with black applied markers and red accents.With no date and 2 sub dials, dial symmetry is strong and the Sinn 910 Anniversary provides dual central seconds hands (for split second timing) plus a 30-minute totalizator at three. Employing a highly altered ETA 7750 using a dual column wheel rattrapante module from La Joux-Perret, the Sinn 910 Anniversary operates like a traditional chronograph, however you may stop and reset the split measure through the pusher at 8 o’clock. This double chronograph performance is excellent for timing the results of two simultaneous events, like the 1st and 2nd outcomes of a sprint, or just for playing with since you pass the time. Furthermore, given their comparative rarity and technical technology, a split second chrono is a cool way to pay tribute to Sinn’s anniversary.Despite its somewhat more classic form, the Sinn 910 Anniversary is spared little of Sinn’s focus to robust engineering and technical details. The Sinn 910 Anniversary is also low pressure immunity and its crown and pushers utilize Sinn’s D3-System for a more integrated design that provides enhanced protection against knocks and the ingress of dust and moisture. As per usual with Sinn, there is no half-assery to be found in the design and construct of this Sinn 910 Anniversary.
After an exclusive launch and a world tour, the exhibition “Breguet, Watchmaker to the Royal Navy” has arrived to the Breguet boutique of Zurich and will be on display through February 2018.
One of the best areas of the Breguet Type XXI is that the motion – that is somewhat more than your regular triple register chronograph. What is also extremely important to mention is that, unlike most (or all I can remember) Breguet Type XXI watches, the motion – with its attractive machine-polished gold strand – is visible via a sapphire crystal display caseback window on the back of the watch. Inside the watch is the very well-regarded in-house Breguet grade 584Q/2. This is the newest model of the caliber 584Q, which now contains an “inverted in-line Swiss lever” silicon escapement from the 584Q/2, compared to the metal straight-line lever escapement from the 584Q. This, of course, isn’t the very first Breguet watch to use silicon parts – and it is good to see the newest continue to adopt this technology, as it assists the moves perform better over time.The caliber 584Q/2 functions at 4Hz (28,800bph) using a power reserve of 48 hours. The automated movement offers the moment, date, and flyback chronograph, along with a synchronized 24-hour hand that functions as an AM/PM indicator. The chronograph is also a central minutes and fundamental seconds chronograph, so you will find just two centrally-mounted chronograph hands to quantify these two sections of time. The subdials on the face are used for the running seconds of the time, chronograph hour index, along with the synchronized 24-hour hand (which among other things makes setting the time simpler). The movement in function and performance is actually nice, and easily a highlight for owning this or other Breguet Type XXI watches.
It recounts the ties that connect the House of Breguet Watches Xxii Replica to the world of maritime navigation and invites its visitors to discover the fundamentals of its 2017 masterpiece, the Marine Équation Marchante 5887, that features one of the rarest and most fascinating complications – the equation of time.
Book your private visit of this exhibition by email email@example.com or via phone +41(0) 44 215 11 88.
Churchill was just one of many high profile figures to select Breguet as his preferred watchmaker. A lifelong patron of the brand, Sir Winston Churchill wore his beloved Breguet No. 765, affectionately known as “The Turnip”, all his life. A replica of this exceptional rattrapante chronograph was made specifically for the film ‘Darkest Hour’ by the House of Breguet, and worn by Gary Oldman as the Prime Minister. Both the film and Mr. Oldman have been nominated for an Academy Award, taking place on Sunday, March 4, 2018 in Los Angeles.
The original Breguet No. 765, sits proudly on view at the Churchill War Rooms in London, as part of the Imperial War Museum, still in perfect working order. The replica created for the film is on display at Breguet Beverly Hills Boutique during the pre-Oscars week and will be exhibited at the Breguet booth at the Baselworld Watch & Jewellery Show in Switzerland from March 22-27, 2018.
The Breguet No. 765, with minute repeater and split-second seconds hand, was commissioned in 1890 by Churchill’s grandfather, John Spencer-Churchill, the 7th Duke of Marlborough. It became Churchill’s favourite timekeeper but it was not his only Breguet. Churchill was a frequent visitor to the House, sometimes to make purchases and other times to have his pieces serviced. Like many men of his stature, the pocket watch was favoured over the wristwatch, which was becoming fashionable and considered the more practical choice by today’s standards; yet as a testament to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s keen eye for refined aesthetics, the unmistakeable Breguet style codes engineered in the 18th century continue to be honoured today. His design aesthetic is undoubtedly timeless as demonstrated by the current collections and notably the Classique Collection – the modern gentleman’s wristwatch of today.
The Classique Collection exemplifies the watchmaking ideals of precision, clarity, and elegant lines; while Churchill’s pocket watch was laden with a heavy gold waistcoat-chain and a secondary small case for holding gold sovereigns, today’s pieces are ultra-thin, modern and sleek. Remaining true to the technical principles, artistry and the traditional values of the House, today’s wristwatches continue to showcase the revolutionary inventions of Abraham-Louis Breguet.
Hailed for anticipating the modern chronograph (an invention that dates back to 1820) it can been seen today on a variety of models including: the Classique 5287, Marine 5827 and the Heritage 5400.
Another important Breguet invention and movement that can be found in the Breguet No. 765, is the minute repeater. Having invented the gong spring in 1783, Breguet has continued to develop this movement in the constant pursuit to perfect this invention. An exceptionally useful invention, it was adopted immediately by most contemporary watchmakers who admired Breguet’s multiple striking mechanisms for repeating watches, in particular for the quarters, half-quarters and minutes.
Today’s wristwatches not only showcase the historical artistry of the House of Breguet, but simultaneously epitomise the style of the modern gentleman.
In September, 1999, the Swatch Group bought Breguet Watches Fake Replica in an investment group. It was the fantasy of the late Nicolas G. Hayek to own the brand. Hayek has been known to be absolutely obsessed with Breguet and often referred to his favorite new as the “Jewel of the Swatch Group.” Then he decided to generate a replica of the first solely predicated on written descriptions and drawings made through the pocket watch’s design and structure. Reproducing the 160 pocket watch into what’s the Breguet 1160 Marie Antoinette using just written and visual guides is among the most talked accomplishments in modern watchmaking. Remember the romance of the original? It had been commissioned by a fan of Marie Antoinette for her, back in 1783. It was finished afterwards she (and Breguet himself) died, and it represented what many argue was the pinnacle of Breguet’s lifework: to unite complications with everlasting beauty and mechanical fascination.The video further above is from the 2008 Baselworld watch trade show event where Nicolas G. Hayek is personally presenting the watch. It is just a few months following the 160 made headlines after being discovered again in late 2007. Even the wooden box produced for it was a marvel, using wood from a special tree made famous by Marie Antoinette that Breguet reportedly bought for something like 7 million Euros. If I recall correctly, the tree fell over naturally, but the condition upon which Versailles would sell the shrub to Breguet was whether it “donated” money for its restoration of the famed French palace.At 63mm broad in 18k gold, the Breguet 1160 Marie Antoinette attempted to replicate the initial 160 in every way possible from the complications into the crystal made of natural rock crystal. Along with the time and incorporating automatic winding, the Breguet 1160 Marie Antoinette pocket watch has a perpetual calendar, chronograph, minute repeater, thermometer, power reserve indicator and much more special technical characteristics which even today stay remarkable; all with a skeletonized, dial-free design.