The new watches from Roger Dubuis watches replica will be a mix between Roger Dubuis phase 1 , with the more-than-classic “Bulletins d’Observatoires”, and the phase 2, that of the exuberant pieces from the euphoric new watchmaking. In the continuance of “La Monegasque”, three new collections are presented at this SIHH.
For this SIHH 2012, the tendency instilled by Georges Kern the previous year gains momentum. Thus, the corollary of a general tendency that involves the whole industry (especially automotive engines and computer technologies), far beyond watchmaking, is that we are witnessing an overall downsizing. This tendency, inspired by obvious ecological necessities, corresponds also to the comeback of a certain conservatism from the “30 glorious”.
This type of neo-classic design, or even iconic, is the kind of work one could almost expect from a corporate company like Cartier.First, an interesting creation intended for women, the Velvet. It brings some freshness to the universe of women’s watches, with a dedicated design. The versions featuring metallic wristbands are the most comprehensively designed, because the bracelet’s central link is an extension of the built-in “fore links” integrated to the bezel at 6 and 12 o’clock.
This creation shatters many prejudices regarding women’s watches. Misconceptions that state it is impossible to fit high quality mechanical calibers in such pieces, because of the constrained dimensions as well as lack of interest women have for mechanical beauties.The watch is 36mm across; it features a RD821 automatic caliber, 25.5mm by 3.43mm, set at 28,000 v/h with a 48-hour Power-reserve. As some pointed out in the article on “La Monegasque”, a “par epargne” work on the counterweight would have fitted the watch better than the current screen-printing. However, it is only a detail; this movement is an excellent choice for a woman’s watch without complications. Moreover, it benefits from the “Poinçon de Genève”, a standard hallmark at RD. A feature almost unique in this niche.
The watch should reach its declared target. Because it is an exclusive fake Roger Dubuis watch, due to its caliber and its finishes, but whose design remains sufficiently mass market, or even emblematic, to please a majority of women, typically as a gift.
The Excalibur collection more or less revisits the design of the previous Excalibur from Roger Dubuis, but as I said earlier, in a downsized version, without the central lug.
With 42mm in diameter, the case could appear a little small for a watch with a martial theme.
However, on one’s wrist, its aperture is enormous, and the watch seems to be a 44mm rather than a 42. Exactly the opposite of La Monegasque, which looks like a 42 when it is really a 44.
This utilization of lapis lazuli is uncommon and must produce fabulous contrasts when fitted in the rose gold case.
These kinds of creations could lead the way to other watches featuring an antique style, made of bronze matched with Lapis.
The biggest novelty of this Roger Dubuis SIHH is of course the Pulsion. The Pulsion is the sports watch of Roger Dubuis new collections, 44mm titanium, waterproof up to 100m, one could have hoped for 300m, in order to safely practice all types of nautical sports…
This paradoxical demonstration by the designers from Roger Dubuis is the proof that a technical chart is nothing without an IRL try.
The automatic Excalibur features the RD620 caliber with micro-rotor, set at 28,800 v/h with a 52-hour Power-reserve. Several versions of dials are still available in stainless steel or in rose gold. For the pictures, I selected the gorgeous lapis lazuli models as well as the mother-of-pearl one.
Regarding the dial, the Cotes de Genève of the Railroad create a convincing contrast with the perlage of the RD680 caliber’s plate. The 12 and 6 numbers, set directly on the plate, strongly enhance the volume effect and emphasize the depth of the hollowed out dial.
If the waterproofing is limited, it is probably because of a surprising and innovative aesthetical choice: the watch is covered with a large sapphire that must be 43mm across, and fastened by tiny screws.
The non-reflective treatment is excellent and only the black internal bezel produces a slightly blue shimmering, which is superb incidentally, as you can see on the photos. Visually it is rather innovative, seen from sideways as well as from the front. Compared to the previous diver from RD, the case got skinnier, but it also became more complex, regarding the dial as well as the design of the middles. As a result, the general look and feel of the mens Roger Dubuis copy watch is quite technical, very cold, bordering on certain Cyberpunk creations from the independent watchmaking.